After a good night’s sleep and a cooler morning the energy came back. I folded a few sails, since I have the luxury of being alongside a dock. Unpacked the folding bike. But then I realized that Valetta is about 10 kms from here. So, I locked the bicycle and took the bus. Then I joined the tourist throngs in Valetta. The first stop was at St. John’s cathedral. Built by the European noble men/warriors who had managed to stop the onslaught of the Ottoman Turks after the Great Siege of 1565. More recently on August 15th (which is also the feast of Mary’s assumption, one of the four main Maltese feast days) 1942 the Maltese were able to stop the assault of the Italians, part of the fascist Axis. The tanker, the USS. Ohio came to the rescue when the island’s governor had lost all hope. This vessel was the first welded, instead of riveted, double hulled ship. The USS Wasp also played a significant role. But this whole island is a fortress. This weekend is the feast of Saint Mary of Mount Carmel, which is also one of the oldest parishes on the island. The main streets are all decorated and lined with these gaudy removable wooden statues, see pictures.
In the meantime it is Sunday morning and I moved the boat to the other side of Valetta and I am anchored near the Royal Malta YC. I rowed to shore and attended 9.15 high mass at the St. John’s cathedral. I believe that I can soon make claim for having attended more services in famous and out of the way churches than most. It was a beautiful service, latin mass with about a 50 member choir and a magnificent organ. Now back to the Saturday visit of the museum part of the St.John church. You are given a self guided audio tour. So much nicer than having these groups of people following a guide explaining it in their language. The two particular artist that have contributed their talents to this church are first of all Caravaggio a 16th century Lombardian painter. Particularly the Beheading of St. John the Baptist. And the Flemish tapistries of de Vos. Carvaggio was another artist with a wild temper and very controversial. Pictures are not allowed in the museum part.
In the museum I met Rudi and Froukje both from Leeuwarden who are here on a discovery visit to check their competition for the 2018 European city of culture nomination. The work for the Leeuwarden entry. At first I thought that Malta would be no match for Leeuwarden but then they explained to me that with all the history here the Maltese have very little access to cultural events. So, root for the Frisian women!!
I dropped the trip to Tunis, talking to my British neighbors in the anchorage, they pointed out that there is really not much of interest to experience. The winds sound not too encouraging to go from here back to the S.W. part of Sicily. So, I might stay another day on anchor. Otherwise I’ll leave this afternoon and might end up with a two night sail. I am sort of done with the Med and anxious to get up to France and on to Amsterdam. I am very glad I stopped in Malta. The Maltese are not a particular attractive people. And they rank right after Brazil in the way they dress, men and women. But hat has little to do with their warmth and generosity. Maybe it is because I have just been between the gorgeous Slavic women and the beautiful Italian women.
Sunday evening: There are some real nasty gales blowing tomorrow north of me. Force 7 and 8…. So, I’ll stay put since I am not paying moorage. It’s a long row from the anchorage to Valetta and not many places that you can get to town other than climbing over high fences. I chose to go through the hotel marina. And on the way back I got their wireless access code which I can catch here on the anchorage. But it comes and goes. After mass while I was working on the blog with a cool beer I ran out of battery power. At the table next to me were Anne and Valeska from Sittard. Really nice ladies in their early thirties. Anne had studied a year in La Fayette, La. and works in the medical administration of a Sittard hospital, Valeska has a degree in German languages. She studied in Dresden. If you look at the picture you’d wonder, just like me, how these nice gals managed to keep from being snatched by a good man yet. They’d make great daughters in law for you. They love to travel and both have learned to sail when they were younger.
There is an armada of sail and power boats returning from their weekend outing and the regatta.
I am putting a few pictures below, these are the ones Photoshop just plain refuses to size for a slide show. But I have made so many good pictures here that I have put them in a slide show of 22 pictures, included now in at : www.cometosea.us/albums/albums/WesternMed.wmv
I might do a little more exploring tomorrow and in that case will add those pictures as well. I’ll let you know.