I can see the high rises of Ft. Lauderdale. A familiar place, the first day I landed here was in 2009 on April 1st. That was after my 2008/2009 North Caribbean winter. Greg and Marlys Clark gave me my red West Marine folding bike for my birthday. My first folding bike was stolen on my 72nd birthday in Puerto Rico. The first folding bike was a gift from Bob Ellsworth in the summer of 2007. The red bike ended up in the first shipwreck in November 2013. It saw 22 European countries. By coincidence, I finished my round the world cruise on April 1st, again, in 2017. “Everybody knows a fool, no exception to the rule”.
This is the capital of the Marine Industry business. I hope to fix my Aries wind vane here and find a life raft.
This will probably be my fastest cruise ever. Lots of wind and the Gulf Stream. I left Key West just before 9 on the 8th and expect to be in port within the hour 27 hours with a distance of 171 nautical miles. That is an average of over 6 knots. I saw over 9 knots on the odometer and most of it was an average of 6 plus knots. But I also had some motoring at 6 knots for about 3 hours when the wind died. And I dragged a lobster pot for a half hour, but managed to get rid of it by dropping sails and running the engine in reverse. I could not sail in a straight line because the wind for a good part was dead aft and I need a narrower angle to the wind. I miscalculated the angle when I had to jibe once I turned the corner below Miami. I went way too far and did not give the push from the Gulf Stream enough consideration. Instead of doing the last jibe into Ft. Lauderdale earlier I ended up hard to the wind instead of just some space off the aft wind.
On the sail from Cuba to Key West I had the advantage of being pushed sideways to the correct angle instead of having to tack to make up for the unfavorable wind direction. Now that I am starting to leave the Gulf Stream I’ll end up with room to spare and can ease the sheets.
Since my last blog, I celebrated my 88th birthday in the Hemmingway Marina. My 2022 hosts after my shipwreck Miralys and Osmany and the two ladies. Valena and Lady, in the harbormaster’s office were a big help. The son of my ’22 hosts brought a friend to play his guitar and show up in his Mexican Mariachi outfit. We ended up with 16 guests, 11 of them cruising crew from six different countries. You can get a good idea of the party on a you tube video/slide show at: www.youtube.be/ow4rp_OdiLM.
On March 1st I finally found out where “Fleetwood II” ended up after the March 3rd 2022 shipwreck. Jorge, a haberdasher in, for one, used marine gear who spends a good part of his time at the marina, told me the story. Several says after the boat was removed from the reef he was offered parts from my boat. And he confirmed where the boat ended up with what my guess was, in Bahia Honda, where I anchored right next to a junk yard, awaiting better weather conditions to enter the hazardous entry to Hemingway marina. He told me that everything has been parted out.
Jorge took me and Sylwia from “Sommer Wind” and Mike from “Slainte” to reprovision. He knew all the good places. On Sunday I hopped on the wawa taxis to go to Havana and to the mass at the Cathedral of O.L. of the Immaculate Conception. The city is for a good part a sad looking slum but it also still maintains some of its historic glory.
On Sunday, March 3rd, I took the wWa-Wa taxis to the Big City of Havana and went to mass at the Cathedral of O.L. of the Immaculate Conception.
I ended up leaving Hemingway Marina on Monday morning, March 3rd when I, at last, had a good weather window. But that turned out not to be accurate and it was a tough hard on the wind sail, with as much as three reefs in the main. But it also had a good smoother part. On arrival at Key West, I discovered that the anchor winch did not work again, so I had to hand lower the super heavy anchor. When I checked the fuse, which turned out to be the problem when the electrician in Cuba worked on it. It turned out that he had wrapped thin wire around the two poles of the breaker fuse. It worked just fine but I thought that he had replaced the 5 amp fuse.
On pulling the anchor, on Saturday, it became an hour’s effort. Using rope ties to the chain and cranking with the help of my headsail winch. Once the anchor was loose, I floated around the anchorage trying avoid other boats and watching my depth sounder.
It turned out that the anchorages at Key West are too far and the currents too strong to attempt rowing there. I put a call for a ride on the local cruisers FB page. Not a chance. This anchored crowd here is the opposite of the community in places like Rio Dulce. I am told a good part are druggies and permanent live-aboards. So, I was in isolation from Tuesday until Friday when I was starting to crawl up the walls and running out of food. Two French boats anchored close enough to hail “Caribou” with Sebastien and his wife, from Montpellier. And his neighbor Jean Pierre? A catamaran. They both spent time in Rio Dulce and knew my French friends I made there. Sebastien dropped me in town and I spent Friday afternoon clearing customs, shop and blend in with the tourist crowd. I had a beer at Jimmy Buffet’s Margarita Ville. A great place and everyone having a good time. The two French boats left shortly after me and I arranged with Sebastien to sail by, his boat is much faster than mine, and take a picture of me and the boat. And I managed to get a few good shots of their boat.
So, thank God and my luck, I happen to be on the only available mooring ball here in Ft. Lauderdale, in the same spot of my two earlier visits in 2009 and 2017. In 2020, the end of April, the mooring balls were quarantined because of Covid. Anchoring in the confined waters would have been a challenge.
Captain Ron, a Quebecois, my neighbor, helped me with his dinghy because it would have been a two crew job. The spot has a dinghy dock now. I shall get my first ride in the dinghy I purchased in Rio Dulce and try out my 12 volt pump. Another Quebecois, Roger, came by and offered to give me a ride to the stores. I remember that they were a ways from this spot. My priority chore is to try fix the sudden loss of wi-fi and GPS on my laptop and wi-fi on my tablet. It all worked several days before I left Cuba. I have exhausted all the Google searches on the only wi-fi I have on my cellphone. I had to send text and photos for an upcoming article in Latitude-38 and had to use Bluetooth and upload to Google Drive.
UPDATE: I posted this on the 11th and today, March 14, I finally ended up connecting to the internet on my Starlink. So, I can rattle away again on my laptop. It was an half hour one way walk to the repair shop and I did this 16 laps or 8 hours. Coul I qualify for the Guiness book of records as oldest speedwalker? I might be here longer than expected. I purchased an AIS transponder throught the USPS and it has not shown up on the tracking yet. I also need to get the power problem solved on the anchor windlass and GPS restored to the plotter. I hope to find someone that can checkout the old Aries Windvane. Apparently Amsterdam is the place to get the parts.
My time is running short if I still wish to use my March 27th return portion of my flight Amsterdam-SeaTac. Last year I was able to change the departure of the same roundtrip from SeaTac to Dulles.
I may end up doing this again and trying to extend it to a later date in April. Possibly celebrate Easter with my brothers and sisters at Saint Charles of Borromeo in Cape Charles. I am having 2nd thoughts to consider pursuing the attempt to flatter myself with becoming the oldest solo round the world sailor. After checking out Rio Dulce, I consider this to be a possible winter’s refuge after a grow up. I still have this long time wish to sail to Cartagena, Colombia and get on the bus for a backpack tour of the South American Pacific Coast. I might hang on to “Fleetwood III” a little longer and use it this summer in Europe for short visits in and near Holland and rent a car to visit friends in Western Europe who I have neglected too long. And put #4 on the hard until this upcoming winter season.